A View

beyond this patch of land, there's always a sense of reprieve and nostalgia. Burleigh Heads off the coast of well, Gold Coast - is not just a beach, it is my altar where I would once, far away during a time of antiquity, rolled up my board from the lawn, and drive out. Here is my first foray or an attempt to taste mother nature's embrace in its most mellow and natural form, a wave. A swell or whatever.

Why? you can blame the flamboyant Michael Peterson, a personified waterman and pioneer of the 70s, you can accuse the stacks of magazines in my room, displaying Sunny Garcia, graciously doing powerful cutbacks. Or most likely, that little emptiness of not knowing what to do. So yeah, I got sucked into this past time or more vaguely some would say, a sport. And Burleigh Heads is where it all started, an innocence - lost forever.